Rooftops and Gardens

A chance to catch up with the blogging as I'm stuck at home sick today :(

Since the end of Session A last weekend, things have gotten busier. I was moved up to the advanced language class, meaning that I've had more work to do and had less time for adventures. But I figure that's okay, because the language classes *are* the reason I came to start with. And I do feel that I'm learning a lot more than I was in the class I was in before. And I have been able to make time for a few outings all the same.

Last Thursday I joined in an after-class excursion to go to the top of St. Olha and Elizabeth's church. Though I've been to that church many times, I've not been up into its tower. It was a short climb, but the view was lovely.

The interior of the church

The weekend was also eventful. Saturday was my birthday, but unfortunately most of my friends were out of town. I settled for sleeping in, going into town for some cake, and meeting up later with my friend Mariya for some dinner, followed by dessert at the chocolate factory.

Mariya gave me these earrings as a birthday present. They are made from a stone specifically intended for Cancers, and supposedly they give you good luck with the opposite sex. I joked with her that we'd see how well that worked out. ;)

On the way home, Mariya took me by L'viv University's pleasant little Botanic Gardens.

Bet you never knew there were palm trees in Ukraine, did you??

Although it would've been more fun to have my friends still here, it definitely wasn't the worst birthday I've ever had. And the next day was even better, because... castles!!!!!

In Which I Fail to Enter a War Zone

I am admittedly late in beginning this section of my blog, and there are a score of adventures from last year still missing, but I will skip ahead to the present trip in the spirit of relevance.

For a country that some claim is “on the edge of civil war,” all Ukraine has thus far shown to me is the same peace and hospitality as ever before. Men may be fighting and dying in Luhansk and Donetsk, but everywhere that I have been has betrayed no hint of this violence. That said, some things have certainly changed in the eleven months since I was last here.

A patriotic slogan, "Glory to Ukraine!" spray-painted on the crumbling ruins of a building in Stryis'kiy Park. I was to see much more similar graffiti during my time in Ukraine.

L’viv is an eternal city, like Rome or Paris. It wears its age like a crown of flowers on its head. It is perhaps the most under-appreciated gem of a city in the world. The analysts who fear that all of Ukraine may descend into chaos on a moment's notice have obviously never visited this wondrous place.

Here, mere hours from the Polish border, life goes on as usual. Crumbling Austrian facades tower over quiet streetside cafes. There is music, laughter, and life. The only remaining sign of the recent tragedy is a poster in front of the main government building in Rynok Square, honoring the "Heavenly Hundred" who were killed in clashes against Yanukovych's government in February. More of the dead came from L'viv than from any other city. And while hints of mourning still appear now and then, it is apparent that most L'viv residents understand that the country's struggles are not over. At the Ukrainian Greek Catholic church service I attended on Sunday, all of the intentions were offered for Ukraine's Crimean Tatars, who have been forced off their land and threatened-- again-- by the Russians.

I know that in America right now, one is hard pressed to find a picture of Ukraine that does not include men with guns. So here are several that I took on a Sunday stroll through Stryi'ski Park.

 

...and from a foray into the city center by the Opera House.

And yes, even in the midst of all this peace and beauty, there are still reminders.

Holidays in L'viv

After my Turkish adventures, I spent a night at my friend Talia's apartment in Kyiv, then hopped a train to L'viv, where I would spend the holidays. There was some confusion about my apartment rental, so I ended up staying in an apartment the first night, and then moving into the apartment next door where the landlady lived with her family.

I had signed up for an intensive Ukrainian language class, but in the end I was the only one who had signed up and the class was cancelled, so I ended up having to arrange individual lessons instead. Every day, my Ukrainian teacher would come to my apartment and give me a four-hour Ukrainian lesson. It was really exhausting, but I managed to make some time to see some of L'viv in between.

My apartment was near the train station, and not too far from the center. Near the train station is the beautiful Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church of St. Olha and Elizabeth. My first Sunday in L'viv, I attended Mass there.

My part of town was also filled with many of the type of building that makes L'viv so wonderful-- old Austrian houses, some better maintained than others. Some people think that the city would be more beautiful if it were maintained better-- but I almost prefer the atmosphere created by the peeling paint and crumbling facades.

On New Year's Eve, I met Charitie and Russell (two Fulbrighters living in L'viv) in the city center. We wandered around the Christmas village which had sprang up in front of the opera house. I bought a delicious candy apple covered in coconut!

Різдвяний Ярмарок (Christmas Fair)

яблука з кармелом і кокосом... дуже смачно!
(caramel apple with coconut... very tasty!)

Near midnight, we found a spot right between the Christmas tree and the Opera house.

And then all hell broke loose. I mean, you think American parties can get crazy? In Ukraine, the city government doesn't put on a fireworks show. The people put it on themselves. We were standing mere feet from L'viv's landmark historical opera house in a crowd full of drunk people... and they started shooting off fireworks everywhere. I mean, everywhere. I've never been so close to so many explosives. I was afraid both for my life and for the continued structural integrity of the opera house. What a way to bring in 2013!

The next day, I wandered around my neighborhood and took some more pictures of the buildings. Such lovely old facades.

Ahh, beautiful, old L'viv.

Speaking of beautiful and old, Charitie and I also made a return trip to Lychakivske Cemetery!

I met Charitie at the book bazaar,

Walking toward the book bazaar on Rynok Square...

Книжки (books)!

...and we took the tram out to the cemetery.

Outside the cemetery, a war memorial... though I'm not 100% sure which war.

Many monuments are still regularly maintained by family.

This grave had an airplane propeller.

This one, in true L'viv fashion, had a lion sleeping on top.

Monuments ranged from the classically religious...

...to the Soviet Art Deco. This was the grave of an athlete.

This monument of the "L'wow Eaglets" is for the Polish soldiers who died defending L'viv (surprisingly, from the Ukrainians...) in 1918-1919: you can read about it here.

A cool monument with a river/waterfall made out of glass, copper wave crests and a boatman...

The Creepiest Grave I Have Ever Seen.

A bishop

Another bishop, not to be confused with the previous bishop, although he looks exactly the same.

And a... whatever this is.

Another bishop

Ivan Franko, a very famous Ukrainian poet. There's a city named after him, and a major university, too.

And apparently, Ebenezer Scrooge's door knocker.

Some other photos from wintry L'viv:

The view from my bedroom window.

After a week studying Ukrainian here, it was time to move on to my friend Mariana's for Christmas.