Holidays in L'viv

After my Turkish adventures, I spent a night at my friend Talia's apartment in Kyiv, then hopped a train to L'viv, where I would spend the holidays. There was some confusion about my apartment rental, so I ended up staying in an apartment the first night, and then moving into the apartment next door where the landlady lived with her family.

I had signed up for an intensive Ukrainian language class, but in the end I was the only one who had signed up and the class was cancelled, so I ended up having to arrange individual lessons instead. Every day, my Ukrainian teacher would come to my apartment and give me a four-hour Ukrainian lesson. It was really exhausting, but I managed to make some time to see some of L'viv in between.

My apartment was near the train station, and not too far from the center. Near the train station is the beautiful Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church of St. Olha and Elizabeth. My first Sunday in L'viv, I attended Mass there.

My part of town was also filled with many of the type of building that makes L'viv so wonderful-- old Austrian houses, some better maintained than others. Some people think that the city would be more beautiful if it were maintained better-- but I almost prefer the atmosphere created by the peeling paint and crumbling facades.

On New Year's Eve, I met Charitie and Russell (two Fulbrighters living in L'viv) in the city center. We wandered around the Christmas village which had sprang up in front of the opera house. I bought a delicious candy apple covered in coconut!

Різдвяний Ярмарок (Christmas Fair)

яблука з кармелом і кокосом... дуже смачно!
(caramel apple with coconut... very tasty!)

Near midnight, we found a spot right between the Christmas tree and the Opera house.

And then all hell broke loose. I mean, you think American parties can get crazy? In Ukraine, the city government doesn't put on a fireworks show. The people put it on themselves. We were standing mere feet from L'viv's landmark historical opera house in a crowd full of drunk people... and they started shooting off fireworks everywhere. I mean, everywhere. I've never been so close to so many explosives. I was afraid both for my life and for the continued structural integrity of the opera house. What a way to bring in 2013!

The next day, I wandered around my neighborhood and took some more pictures of the buildings. Such lovely old facades.

Ahh, beautiful, old L'viv.

Speaking of beautiful and old, Charitie and I also made a return trip to Lychakivske Cemetery!

I met Charitie at the book bazaar,

Walking toward the book bazaar on Rynok Square...

Книжки (books)!

...and we took the tram out to the cemetery.

Outside the cemetery, a war memorial... though I'm not 100% sure which war.

Many monuments are still regularly maintained by family.

This grave had an airplane propeller.

This one, in true L'viv fashion, had a lion sleeping on top.

Monuments ranged from the classically religious...

...to the Soviet Art Deco. This was the grave of an athlete.

This monument of the "L'wow Eaglets" is for the Polish soldiers who died defending L'viv (surprisingly, from the Ukrainians...) in 1918-1919: you can read about it here.

A cool monument with a river/waterfall made out of glass, copper wave crests and a boatman...

The Creepiest Grave I Have Ever Seen.

A bishop

Another bishop, not to be confused with the previous bishop, although he looks exactly the same.

And a... whatever this is.

Another bishop

Ivan Franko, a very famous Ukrainian poet. There's a city named after him, and a major university, too.

And apparently, Ebenezer Scrooge's door knocker.

Some other photos from wintry L'viv:

The view from my bedroom window.

After a week studying Ukrainian here, it was time to move on to my friend Mariana's for Christmas.