L'viv: The City of My Heart

Ahhh......... L'viv. What can I say about L'viv?

No words can describe L'viv. There is no city like it in the world.

L'viv enchants you. It gets into your soul and doesn't leave.

Rynok Square: the most beautiful part of the most beautiful city!

No pictures can do justice to the feeling of being there. There is just something so intense, so rich and alive, about this city.

It is a city of hidden treasures. Everywhere there are intricate facades inset with statues, historical buildings, old churches. You are simultaneously surrounded by history, and by life.

On Monday, I returned to L'viv for the first time. It had taken two years, but I finally made it back. The city's attraction is irresistible.

I got up at 5 in order to catch a taxi to the train station. At 6 am, I boarded the train, which arrived in L'viv around 12:50. Father Chrysostomos met me at the station, and I was so glad to see him! It's been two years. He took me to lunch at a little Armenian restaurant that he's fond of, then we walked around the city a bit. We went to the Orthodox Monastery, then climbed the hill north of the city to the open-air folk architecture museum.

The open-air museum is a forest filled with houses from Carpathian villages that were disassembled, moved here, and reassembled.

I think my grandma has a painting of this church at home...

There is a monastery and a couple of churches in the park, so they let us in for free, assuming that Father Chrysostomos was going to the church. He had planned to leave me exploring the museum while he went to vespers elsewhere, but since his taxi didn't arrive on time, we went to vespers at the church in the park instead.

Unfortunately I wasn't allowed to take pictures of the inside of the church, but the interior is just as beautiful as the exterior. Wooden walls, painted icons decorated with hand-embroidered banners, fresh flowers.  It was such a treat to attend vespers in Ukrainian in this candle-lit old church. Like balm for your soul. How much I've missed the Ukrainian services!!!

I checked into the apartment which Father Chrystostomos had reserved for me at Ukrainian Catholic University, the university for which I taught on my last visit. These accommodations turned out to be in one of their apartments for international students. I had my own individual room in a suite of five, which also included two bathrooms and a shared kitchen. The other people living there included a Ukrainian college student and a Venezuelan student who was there to study Ukrainian. I had wonderful conversations with these girls. We helped the Ukrainian girl with her English, and in turn she helped the two of us with our Ukrainian. It was great fun, and really helpful! Part of me wishes I could live with such roommates full-time! I will definitely stay there next time I go to L'viv, especially because it was cheap-- only 100 hryvnia (about $12) a night!

Interestingly, I also discovered that another girl lived there-- another Fulbright student from Louisiana! I'll see her in Kyiv this weekend! It's a small world.

On Tuesday I got a call from my cousin Nick, who was arriving in L'viv. I found my way to the train station to meet him, on foot. He and I wandered around the city for a while before returning to my apartment so he could get a shower and locate a hostel. We stopped at the chocolate factory I remembered from my last trip to buy some delicious candies. Nick had also brought me half a pretzel and some sugar-roasted almonds from Oktoberfest. Like, the actual Oktoberfest. In Germany. They were *amazing*, even after being squished in his bag for 16 hours.

Nick in front of the L'viv Opera House.
We wanted to see an opera but there was nothing showing on Wednesday :( 

Then, after checking him in at a hostel on Rynok Square, we met up with Mariana, who had been the academic director at the 2010 English Summer School where I taught. She brought us to Puzhata Khata, the chain of restaurants which serve a lot of traditional Ukrainian food, so that Nick could try some. Overall, it was a very pleasant evening.

Wednesday I met Nick outside his hostel, and we enjoyed a leisurely brunch at a cafe on Rynok Square. It was unbelievably delicious. Then we went to the National Museum, which contained a plethora of icons from old churches all over the region, as well as some interesting artwork. After returning to UCU to settle my apartment bill, we went in search of Lychakivske Cemetery, which I have been told I should see.

 This kitty helped us find our way. (Not really, but he was cute.)

By the time we found Lychakivske, there was not much time to spend there, but I will certainly have to return. It is an extraordinary place.

We were only able to see the newer part of the cemetery, but I will certainly return here on my next visit and try to get to the older part, where there are supposed to be some incredible Gothic mausoleums and monuments.

The reason we had so little time at Lychakivske was that I wanted to get Nick back to the city center in time to join Father Chrysostomos for vespers. Unfortunately this venture failed, but we met up with him and Mariana later to drink some coffee and say goodbye. After Father left, Nick, Mariana, and I enjoyed a tasty Italian dinner at Cafe No. 1.

The next morning Nick and I walked together to the train station, since my train left at 8:45 and his after 9. After a seven-hour train ride, I finally got back to Vinnytsia. It had been an incredible few days, but I was exhausted.

No rest for the weary though!

Today, I taught my first full class. The students were pretty good. I let them spend the first half or so of class asking me questions about myself and where I was from, where else I had been in Ukraine, etc. etc. Then we began a lesson on leadership styles, where I helped them to read an article on the subject and answer some questions. We will read the remainder of the article next time. Overall, they were enthusiastic and fun, and I had a good time teaching the class. Afterward, I was introduced to a student who is interested in applying for a Fulbright grant to the United States next year. I chatted with her for an hour or so, then made a grocery run and took the groceries back to my apartment before returning to the university to meet Tanya.

I had been so proud of myself when, after de-boarding my train from L'viv, I had gone to the ticket counter and purchased my return ticket from Kyiv on Monday. IN RUSSIAN. ALL BY MYSELF!!! I was so proud. I didn't even have any big problems-- the ticket lady and I understood one another just fine. She could tell I was a foreigner so she was a little snippy, but I got the ticket and it was correct!

...and then I got an email from the Fulbright office that I needed to change the ticket to leave later, or else I would miss part of the Orientation.

Oh well, it was great while it lasted. :D So Tanya and I returned to the train station to change my ticket for a later time. Then we went to the Italian restaurant in my favorite park to enjoy a delicious pizza dinner outdoors. The waitress must have been new, though, because our pizza was MUCH bigger than she told us it would be.

Tanya is shocked by the enormity of our pizza. On the plus side, I now have leftovers to take on the train tomorrow :)

Afterward, we went for a walk and she showed me more places around Vinnytsia.

All in all, a great week, but I am SO tired! I won't get the chance to relax until I am back from Kyiv. But so be it-- the adventure continues!!

The Teaching Experience Begins

First real teaching last Thursday. Nothing exciting, I taught a lesson on personal banking vocabulary to a group of Business English students. It was only for half the class, and Svitlana covered the other half. Next Friday I am supposed to take the whole period, and I am supposed to take this class for one whole period a week from now on. They all seem enthusiastic and friendly, so we should have a good year, I think.

On Friday I had to meet up with Iryna to continue working on the perpetually incomplete visa paperwork. I met with her at the main building of the university, which is just a block or so from my apartment. It's a beautiful old building, like so many in these parts.

With my free time, I've been walking around the town.

This manhole cover is so Ukrainian. Hahahaha

On Friday I also had a chance to remake some of the recipes that Tanya showed me.

A word about Ukrainian produce: That's not a carrot. THIS is a carrot.

Last night I went to a folk music concert with Svitlana at the local theater. She said that it was modeled after the one in Vienna, and was over 100 years old.

It was a really beautiful building.

The concert was nice, too. It was like the Beach Boys singing folk music, lol.

Anyway, it's bedtime for me now. L'viv tomorrow! Hooray!

Getting Settled in Vinnytsia

Busy day today!

First, an appointment at the university office where my department is located. There I discussed my prospective schedule with Oleg and Svitlana. Scheduling is much more complicated here. It seems that I will be responsible for six classes every other week, and four classes on the off weeks. I have no idea which class is which, and when they meet, but it is hopefully all supposed to materialize soon :)

 Buildings 2 and 3 of the university, where my department and classrooms are located.

This main entryway is usually filled with students hanging out in between classes. I love the flowers.

 The building where my department is located. It's quite nice on the inside.

After my meeting, I went down to the university's main building to sign some more paperwork for my visa application. Then, later in the afternoon, I went back out with Tanya to buy my train tickets for next week-- to L'viv on Monday-Wednesday, then to Kyiv on Saturday. She let me attempt to buy them myself, but my Russian is just not good enough to be fully effective. Plus, people at the train stations are rather short with foreigners. I was really glad she was there to help ensure I got everything right.

After the harrowing train ticket experience, we went to a cafe in the mall for a cappuccino.

(this one was Tanya's... the leaf on mine wasn't as pretty. :P)

After our cappuccinos, we went on a little walk. We passed this beautiful collapsing building which Tanya told me had once been a hospital.

It was really quite something.

Then Tanya showed me a spot down by the river with a beautiful view.

 I think I'd like to go down there and paint sometime.

It was quite a long day for me, especially after the weeks without much activity. I am going to do my first real teaching tomorrow, so I should go work on my material and get some sleep.

Life in Vinnytsia

Yesterday was completely uneventful. I tried to post the video tour of my apartment, but it wouldn't work. It seems okay now, though.

Apologies for being a little out of breath, I had just taken out my garbage, and the dumpster is at the bottom of the hill, so I had walked back up the hill before coming back and climbing the stairs :P The tour starts outside, at the cute little cafe I told you about, so that you can see what my building and the outside of my apartment door look like.

Anyway. Today I met with the director of the university *dusts off shoulder* ...for like five seconds. He was super complimentary and so glad to have me here! Everyone is so happy I'm here and I haven't done anything yet, haha. I just hope I can live up to the hype :o)

I also went to the university this afternoon to sit in on another English class. The first half of the class was for the students to ask me questions about myself and the US, which I would answer as well as I could. One of the girls asked me, "Are the men better-looking in the United States, or in Ukraine?" We all cracked up. My answer: "If I told you 'in Ukraine,' would you think that was the reason I came?" XD

So basically, I've started "working" except I haven't actually had responsibilities yet. Tomorrow morning I am supposed to meet with Oleg to discuss "teaching methods" so I hope that means we will figure out what the heck I am actually doing. I know I'll be sitting in on Svitlana's class again on Thursday.

I've also been talking with Father Chrysostomos (one of the priests from the English Summer School I taught at 2 years ago) about making a trip to L'viv, and it looks as though I will be able to go there Monday through Wednesday of next week, if that doesn't mess up my teaching duties too much. I will ask Oleg tomorrow, and then Tanya will take me to the train station to buy my ticket, to ensure we don't have problems like I had in Kyiv :P I'm so excited about the idea of seeing my students and friends from the ESS again! I hope it all works out.

It seems there is a dearth of visual aids today. So, here are some random pictures:

My street (Arhitektora Artynova), which intersects with the main street (Soborna) A pleasant little street...

....but watch your step. (Especially in heels!)

And this one's for my mom, who was worried I wasn't eating enough whole grains: Krupa. This happens to be of the corn variety.

And, just in case you were worried about poltergeists...

These little stickers on each wall of my apartment mean that the building has been blessed. So you can rest assured. :o)

Adventures in Ukrainian Cooking

TODAY: Adventures in Ukrainian cooking + Attempting to attend Mass!

I wanted to attend Mass at the Catholic cathedral in Vinnytsia, which is across the street from the Orthodox Cathedral.

It turned out to be a Latin Rite Catholic Church, and a Franciscan one, no less! (Hence the Franciscan cross and the mural depicting St. Francis)

Being that I entered the church a little after 10 AM last week and found Mass ending, I decided to get there by 9 AM.

I successfully did so, but it turned out that I had a good half hour to wait and listen to the babushkas sing. And oh, how many babushkas there were!

Mass began. As it went on, though, I grew increasingly perplexed. It seemed I couldn't understand A SINGLE WORD of what was going on. Now I know my Russian's not the best, but being that this was the exact same Mass we have back home, I knew from the set text that I *should* be understanding at least a few words here and there. But no... not a one. Only Бог (Bohg) for God... that was it. Not a Hospody Pomiluy (or Gospody, for that matter!) in sight. I wondered fleetingly... what other language could it possibly be? The only other that I could even conceive of it being was Polish, since I knew a lot of people in Western Ukraine, in L'viv anyway, spoke Polish as it had been part of Poland at one time. But here in Vinnytsia, that wouldn't make sense, right? and so I decided it must just be in Russian, and I was just worse at it than I thought.

Later, when I met up with Tanya, she asked me if I'd made it to Mass and I told her yes. Then she asked me, "Was it in Polish?"

...

I mean, how many languages am I gonna have to learn to get by here!? Hahahaha.... guess I'll have to track down a Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church.

Anyway, in the afternoon Tanya came over to teach me how to cook some Ukrainian food, so that I might not starve. It's not that the food available is so *different,* per se, it's just that it's available in much different proportions than I'm used to. In terms of meat, they mostly eat pork; I was forced to confess that I have very little idea of how to prepare pork, so Tanya taught me to make two dishes using it.

We started with a stewed cabbage dish. Once I saw the finished product, I realized I'd eaten it quite often at the English Summer School where I taught in 2010. This dish is pretty versatile-- you can put in just about any veggies you have around. Tanya brought cabbage, as well as a huge carrot and onions. We cooked the cabbage and added the other veggies once they'd been sauteed to make them sweet. Then, we fried up some pieces of pork and added them in as well.

It was a fun challenge with the limited amenities offered by my pre-furnished apartment: a set of really dull knives, one dutch oven, one frying pan, and one oven pan. But we made do.

Tanya also brought a really tasty Armenian sauce to put on it. We added the sauce and let it cook for a while, so that the cabbage became soft and the whole mixture took on the texture of coleslaw, or relish.

The other way to prepare pork was, she said, called "French Style" although there wasn't really anything French about it. That was kind of immaterial, though, since it was delicious. Basically we took the defrosted pieces of pork and beat the heck out of them with a meat tenderizer. Once they were tender and flat, we put them on the oven tray. Then we sprinkled them with salt and pepper, spread Mayonnaise on them, and topped them with onions, mushrooms, and cheese.

Before cooking:

And after:

Our cooking complete, I sat down at my newly-clothed table...

And enjoyed the delicious meal!

Смачного!

River Boats and Ukrainian Food

Today, I took a ride on the river boat with Tanya and her husband, Vasiliy. The weather wasn't ideal, as it was rainy and got quite cold by the end of the trip, but it was enjoyable nonetheless.

Tanya and me on the boat

Despite the weather, the river vista was still beautiful. The leaves are just starting to turn.

The boat ride ended (or, well, really reached the halfway point, since we stopped there and turned around) within view of a dam and hydroelectric power plant. Tanya told me it had been there since Soviet times, but had been recently upgraded and made more efficient.

I taught Tanya a new word to describe what this place was during Soviet times: a quarry. Upon further reflection... what a weird word.

Here is a picture of the riverboats that I happened to take last week, on a sunnier day:

After the river boat ride, they drove me around by car so that I could see a bit more of the city. We stopped at the Metro store, which is surprisingly similar to Sam's Club or Costco. Tanya and Vasiliy have a membership there, so I was able to get lots of stuff I needed that wasn't available at the stores near me in town-- a good-quality towel, a tablecloth for my table (embroidered Ukrainian-style-- I will take a picture of it tomorrow in the daylight-- it's so pretty! Definitely something I will bring home with me). There was also other stuff that I was glad to be able to buy in larger quantities since they had a car-- for example, water and toilet paper. Tanya is teaching me a lot about buying food in Ukraine, and cooking with it... and believe me, there's a lot to learn. The dishes are so different, and so is what's available in the stores.

When we had finished at the store, they took me to a restaurant which serves traditional Ukrainian food... and they ordered me basically some of everything, haha.

Varenky (basically pierogies) filled with cabbage, potato pancakes (one order topped with mushrooms and one order with onions and ham), fried potatoes with garlic and dill, chicken shashlyk (shish kabob), pickled vegetables (cucumbers and tomatoes), and some type of Armenian dish that I found suspiciously similar to a quesadilla. To drink- prune compote (the flavor of which reminded me of spiced apple cider) and two shots-- horseradish vodka and berry liqueur. The berry liqueur was not bad. Of the horseradish vodka... I wasn't such a big fan, haha. I thought it smelled (and tasted) like acetone :P Everything was so good! I ate far too much, and they let me have the leftovers, too!

We topped off the meal with a cappuccino.

Only THE PRETTIEST CAPPUCCINO EVER. All right kids, it's time for your Russian lesson. Яблоко (pronounced "yabloko")= "apple"

I must say, I have yet to drink a bad cup of coffee in Ukraine. Apparently barista-ing is a "thing" here, and they have competitions and everything. Last weekend when I was at the Day of the City celebration with Tanya we bought cappuccinos at a streetside stand, and it was by far the best coffee I'd ever had.

Now with a full stomach, I enter a food coma. Time for bed!

First Days in Vinnytsia

Okay, so imagine this. Just woke up in the morning, wandered out to the kitchen for some breakfast. Looked out the window, and saw this:

The woman next door was on her roof, picking grapes. And to think the U.S. believes itself so cutting-edge on the topic of urban gardening! :P

The only important task for today was to return to the apartment rental agency so to pay the remainder of my rent and fees, and to sign the lease. All successfully completed, I'm glad to say. On the way back, I wandered through my favorite park, which is just about a block away from my apartment. It's not the biggest park in the city, or the main park, but I like it the most of the ones I've seen so far.

The atmosphere is very relaxed and there are always people sitting on the benches and around the fountain, drinking coffee, eating ice cream, chatting, and so on. Since there were other tourists there today, I didn't feel super self-conscious about taking a few photos.

Background: the famous Vinnytsia Clock Tower. There's a museum inside, which I'll have to visit someday.
Foreground: These statues are spaced throughout the park. I'm told that if you throw a coin into the right spot, they play music, but I am not sure how this magic works.

Right in front of the clock tower, Some perspective street art! Pretty neat, I'd never seen one in person before.

Here's what it looks like from the side:

The park also houses a monument of classic Soviet proportions, to the soldiers who died in World War II. It's complete with an actual fire that actually burns.

(I said there were other tourists, didn't I?)

That was the extent of my adventures today; the rest of the afternoon was spent catching up on online business (registering for an absentee ballot, for example) that I was unable to take care of before I had internet access. Tomorrow, I'm going out with Tanya and her husband. Tonight, though, it's time to settle in with some tea and my writing.

Do your tea cookies love you? Because mine do. :o)